Why we DON’T have a Long Taper (and what that means)
In the hair industry “TAPER” refers to the difference in length between the shortest and the longest individual hairs making up a strand. It is commonly known that in the industry the shorter the hair the less expensive it is to purchase and hair with a LONG TAPER (Large quantities of short hair with Split Ends present) are of considerably less value than hair with a SHORT TAPER (very low percentage of short hairs present). It stands to reason therefore that strands, with a high percentage of short hair and split ends, are of less value than strands comprised of a low percentage of short hair. The disadvantage of strands with a high percentage of short hairs, as well as that of having split ends all the way up the strand itself, is that a lot of volume may be created close to the clients head and yet toward the end of the strands the effect would still be empty and stringy looking because of all the short hairs present. In summary therefore it is clear that strands with a high percentage of short hair are of far less value and more difficult to work with than strands that have a low percentage of short hair and which contain split ends. Furthermore, in order to accomplish volume at the ends, more strands would need to be applied which would result in an imbalanced volume with a lot of bonds close to the scalp, yet not enough long hair in the strands to achieve desired fullness at the ends. Please see Video Link >
WITH A LONG TAPER ALL OF THE VOLUME IS AT THE TOP OF THE STRAND. TOWARDS THE BOTTOM THE STRAND BECOMES MUCH THINNER, CREATING AN UNDESIRABLE STRINGY LOOK.
THE GOLD FEVER MINIMAL TAPER PROVIDES EVENLY DISTRIBUTED VOLUME ALL THE WAY DOWN FROM ROOT TO END.
Why we DON’T use Single Drawn Hair with its split ends (and what that means)
SINGLE DRAWN HAIR is quite simply hair which contains a multitude of lengths and is totally the opposite of double drawn hair (Double Drawn Hair is where Gold Fever, with a specialised two step manual process, has drawn out all the short regrowth hair and their split ends). This Single drawn hair will refer to hair which has not necessarily been cut from a donor and could include brushed hair collected from people forced to sell it in impoverished villages (more about this mentioned in Remis – Dont be misled“). It includes individual hairs of all lengths since it would contain hairs of regrowth as well as hairs that the donor would have had growing for several years. This hair is easily identified by the fact that the thickness of a quantity of this hair at the root end would be substantially greater than the thickness at the far end. This hair is considerably less expensive and less suitable for quality hair extensions than double drawn hair. Strands made of single drawn hair will contain large quantities of short hair with split ends and are thus of vastly inferior quality. They should therefore be considerably less expensive than double drawn hair. Gold Fever only utilises double drawn hair. Salons are often intentionally misinformed by their suppliers that single drawn hair can only be ethical, traceable and from Temples but this can be entirely the opposite of reality. Please see Video Link
SINGLE DRAWN HAIR
CONTAINING LARGE QUANTITIES OF HAIR WHICH IS MUCH SHORTER THAN THAT WHICH IS ADVERTISED. SINGLE DRAWN HAIR CANNOT PRODUCE AN EVEN VOLUME EFFECT FROM ROOT TO ENDS IN AN EXTENSION SERVICE.
DOUBLE DRAWN HAIR
PRACTICALLY ALL OF THE HAIR IN THE STRAND IS OF THE SAME LENGTH. THIS MEANS THAT VOLUME AT THE TOP OF THE STRAND IS THE SAME AS THAT AT THE BOTTOM. CREATING A BALANCED VOLUME EFFECT FROM ROOT TO ENDS IN A QUALITY EXTENSION SERVICE.
Why we DON’T use European Hair (Spanish / Russian)
As recent as 10/15 years ago the availability of European hair was in fact a reality. Certain towns in the south of Italy and in certain regions of Spain, not to mention Russia and the emerging eastern countries were good sources of human hair of varying quality.
Russian and Northern European hair was however predominantly blonde and was generally genetically too fine to be of much use in a volumising hair extension application, whereas hair from southern Italy or Spain was much more suitable for use in providing fullness or length in a hair extension service.
To add to this, hair sourced in the above markets would tend to be purchased from people who are forced to sell it in order to provide for themselves or their families. This would conflict with the philosophy and ethicality of Gold Fever.
“Spanish” & “European Hair” – A modern day myth
Things have changed dramatically in the last few years with the advent of the internet and the phenomenon of a celebrity driven society. People are no longer willing to cut and donate their hair as in the old days since everyone wants to look like the latest celebrity sporting long or voluminous hairdo’s. Therefore the myth of large quantities of Spanish or European hair being available for hair extensions is false. Can one imagine queues of European girls or women lining up ready to sell their hair to a hair extension company coincidentally of the right length and colour and in the quantities that would be needed to supply even a minimum quantity of salons on a continuous basis?
The only ethical, feasible and consistent source of hair compatible to the needs of a Caucasian woman is hair from India and this hair is divided into two categories. The first category and that of the highest quality possible is that of the Indian Ritual Hair, cut from willing worshippers who give up their hair in a gesture of faith and who are fully aware that the hair will subsequently be used in the western world in the manufacture of wigs and hair extensions. They know that the money that the Temple receives for the hair that they have donated to their Gods will be reintroduced to their society for charitable purposes. This has been documented time and time again by journalists and investigative television reporting and is an indisputable fact. The second category is mentioned below in “Why we DON’T use Indian Brushed Hair.”
Remis – DON’T be misled
(Read about REAL REMIS in About – Gold Fever Hair ). Unfortunately in the hair industry the word REMIS or REMY is often used inappropriately and to advertise inexpensive brushed hair which is available in large quantities in villages throughout India and Third World countries but to make this hair sound exotic and of good quality.
Imagine spaghetti of different diameters being put in the same boiling water and for the same amount of time. The thin spaghetti would be over cooked and the thick spaghetti would be undercooked. We can compare this to what happens when this brushed hair is put in acid baths. Being of a tremendous variety of diameters a large percentage of the hair will be heavily damaged by the acid baths whereas a large percentage would end up not having its cuticle removed entirely.
Once out of the acid baths the hair would have lost a lot of weight and, since hair is sold by a combination of weight and length hair dealers compensate for this loss by subjecting the hair to a silicone bath. Initially this will look shiny (even if only an artificial looking shine) and feel soft to the touch but as the wearer washes it a few times the silicone gets washed away and serious problems commence. Where the silicone has washed away exposing cuticle not fully removed in the acid bath and facing the wrong direction, tangling and matting will occur. Where the silicone has washed away exposing hair stripped entirely of its cuticle the hair will rapidly become drier and drier and will be extremely weak. This brushed hair quality is extremely prevalent in today’s hair extension market and yet it is passed off to the unwary end user as REMIS hair.
THE CLIENT WILL WONDER WHY THE HAIR WILL LOOK SO GOOD ON THE DAY OF HER HAIR EXTENSION APPLICATION AND YET AFTER A FEW WEEKS STARTS TO ENCOUNTER THE PROBLEMS DESCRIBED ABOVE. The finger will often be pointed at the salon or the client but the problem in fact derives from the quality of this hair which was used to start with.
Why we DON’T use Brushed Indian Hair
(The secondary market is that of un-Ethical un-Traceable brushed Indian Hair which has already been referred to on our website. As mentioned on this website this quality of hair is neither Ethical nor Traceable and because of the acid baths needed to attempt to remove the cuticle, is not of the standard suitable for a high quality hair extension service.
Why we DON’T use Chinese Hair
Chinese Hair in unsuitable for Superior Quality Hair Extensions as it is too thick, heavy, and has the wrong shaped cross section to be naturally compatible with European Hair.
Keratin – Understand what you are being told
The word Keratin is commonly used to describe the substance with which hair strands are tipped. It has been adopted by a multitude of companies which misleadingly associate this word with the substance that human hair is actually comprised of. KERATIN is extracted from human hair and is widely used in hair care cosmetic products. However, the extraction of KERATIN and its transformation into a bonding agent is an extremely technical procedure and difficult to achieve economically.
In 1991, pioneering the entire hair extension industry, the first and only true KERATIN bonding agent was patented. A bonding agent comprised of real KERATIN extract was extremely expensive to produce but held the applied hair strand firmly in place because of its molecular compatibility with the hair onto which it is being applied. The huge commercial success that resulted from this invention led the market to misleadingly apply the name KERATIN to all sorts of substances, from simple waxes to hot melt glues and even in some cases nothing more than super glues used to attach hair to a client’s own hair. Waxes and common glues or hot melt adhesives, commonly made of co-polyester polymers, and used by most hair extension companies have nothing in common with KERATIN nor the hair they are being bonded to and, as is so often the case, withstand only a few washes before falling out or producing a large amount of shedding.
Gold Fever ™ in collaboration with the very scientists who formulated the first KERATIN bonding agent so many years ago have now taken the bonding agent into a new era with our Gold Fever Protein Tips ™ as explained HERE
What does “Bad Batch” really mean?
Suppliers often use the excuse to salons who receive sub-standard hair as hair coming from “bad batches”. This must be considered unacceptable by the salons for the following reasons.
- The purchaser of the hair at source should know exactly what he is purchasing and should have the experience to distinguish between what is good and what is bad hair. This can also have ethicality implications.
- The distributor who receives such hair from the manufacturer should immediately recognise that the hair is sub-standard and so there is no excuse for it being sent to the salons. This hair can only be substituted with hair of a similar sub-standard quality by the distributor since they are in the hands of their supplier who has purchased and processed this low quality hair in the first place.
Gold Fever, owning and controlling its own Supply Chain, is uniquely positioned to ensure that ethically sourced hair, of the highest quality, is supplied to its partner salons.
This is our promise to you.
Please see our – Gold Fever Certificate of Ethicality